shooting analog
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What is your go-to film?
- Thread starter Karl
- Start date
Deon Rey olds
Member
Toy panorama camera I reload with Kodak Tri-X-135-36 (ISO 200ish) and process with Kodak D-76 1:1 (easy and nice looking to push/pull since cameras don't have any control).
Holga I shoot Ilford FP-4-120 (ISO 100ish) again Kodak D-76 1:1 process normal (very limited push/pull, try to shoot this camera "sunny sixteen").
Hasselblad - Ilford FP-4-120 (ISO 125) same D-76 1:1, Ilford Pan-F-120 (ISO 25) Acufine (both process normal for best results).
M-4 - Ilford FP-4-120 (ISO 125) same D-76 1:1, Ilford Pan-F-120 (ISO 25) Acufine (both process normal for best results).
In the distant past I did custom lab work, regularly being thrown odd-ball rolls or sheets of film. The Compact Photo Lab Index (Morgan & Morgan) was always the goto book to figure out how to process something out of the ordinary without messing it up for the client. I also use the Kodak Professional Black & White Films (publication F-5).
But, I cut my teeth and still to this day refer to these books by Ansel Adams #1 The Camera, #2 The negative, #3 The Print (New York Graphic Society).
Holga I shoot Ilford FP-4-120 (ISO 100ish) again Kodak D-76 1:1 process normal (very limited push/pull, try to shoot this camera "sunny sixteen").
Hasselblad - Ilford FP-4-120 (ISO 125) same D-76 1:1, Ilford Pan-F-120 (ISO 25) Acufine (both process normal for best results).
M-4 - Ilford FP-4-120 (ISO 125) same D-76 1:1, Ilford Pan-F-120 (ISO 25) Acufine (both process normal for best results).
In the distant past I did custom lab work, regularly being thrown odd-ball rolls or sheets of film. The Compact Photo Lab Index (Morgan & Morgan) was always the goto book to figure out how to process something out of the ordinary without messing it up for the client. I also use the Kodak Professional Black & White Films (publication F-5).
But, I cut my teeth and still to this day refer to these books by Ansel Adams #1 The Camera, #2 The negative, #3 The Print (New York Graphic Society).
1936ContaxII
Member
I only take slide pictures:
Black and white in summer: Fomapan R100 with a Dokumol-based reversal process (in future perhaps based on Ilford PQ Universal).
In winter: Fomapan 400 with the same reversal process.
As for colour film (with KR 1.5 filter) : Kodak Ektachrome 100D (or E100) in the sun.
Fujichrome Velvia 50 under a cloudy sky.
My absolute favourite colour film will always be Kodachrome 25
. If it were still available I would pick it up at once.
Black and white in summer: Fomapan R100 with a Dokumol-based reversal process (in future perhaps based on Ilford PQ Universal).
In winter: Fomapan 400 with the same reversal process.
As for colour film (with KR 1.5 filter) : Kodak Ektachrome 100D (or E100) in the sun.
Fujichrome Velvia 50 under a cloudy sky.
My absolute favourite colour film will always be Kodachrome 25
. If it were still available I would pick it up at once.
1936ContaxII
Member
I also avoided it for a long time because, like you, I was worried about the process. Especially as I had had little success with my attempts in the 90s.
But now it turned out to be much less complicated than I had thought.
I am currently preparing a short experience report for a neighbouring forum.
Friedemann Wachsmuth has described a good and inexpensive process here in German. I have now developed a good 50 films with it, and only two of them are really spoilt. The bleach bath was used up on one of them - that wouldn't happen to me today.
As the Dokumol developer used by Friedemann is hard to find, you can also use another paper developer, you just have to find out the first development time. Someone has described it here with Ilford PQ Universal.
Second exposure is unproblematic. I place the film spiral in the open developing can filled with water and illuminate it from a distance of approx. 25 cm for two minutes with a lamp (equivalent to a 100 W incandescent lamp: a 23 W energy-saving lamp).
I then turn the spiral 180° and illuminate it for another two minutes.
You only have to be really careful with two baths:
- You have to keep to the time and temperature for the initial development. This is basically the same as with negative film.
- With the bleach bath (potassium permanganate) I always check the result before the next soaking: if the film still shows dark brown spots, I bleach again for a few minutes. If this still doesn't help, I prepare a new bleach bath (or lazily pour a shot of sulphuric acid into the old bleach bath) and bleach again for three minutes.
But now it turned out to be much less complicated than I had thought.
I am currently preparing a short experience report for a neighbouring forum.
Friedemann Wachsmuth has described a good and inexpensive process here in German. I have now developed a good 50 films with it, and only two of them are really spoilt. The bleach bath was used up on one of them - that wouldn't happen to me today.
As the Dokumol developer used by Friedemann is hard to find, you can also use another paper developer, you just have to find out the first development time. Someone has described it here with Ilford PQ Universal.
Second exposure is unproblematic. I place the film spiral in the open developing can filled with water and illuminate it from a distance of approx. 25 cm for two minutes with a lamp (equivalent to a 100 W incandescent lamp: a 23 W energy-saving lamp).
I then turn the spiral 180° and illuminate it for another two minutes.
You only have to be really careful with two baths:
- You have to keep to the time and temperature for the initial development. This is basically the same as with negative film.
- With the bleach bath (potassium permanganate) I always check the result before the next soaking: if the film still shows dark brown spots, I bleach again for a few minutes. If this still doesn't help, I prepare a new bleach bath (or lazily pour a shot of sulphuric acid into the old bleach bath) and bleach again for three minutes.